Gigi on Hat-Making Tricks

Who knew you needed to become an expert at sewing fur?

Though the Lower East Side-based designer Gigi Burris got plenty of technical training at Parsons, making the leap into headwear required an entirely new set of skills. These are the three crafts she’s currently mastering to stay on top of her game.

See how Gigi has put her abilities to good use: Check out the intricate grosgrain, leather, and feather headbands she created for Of a Kind.


1) Getting to know the hat forms.
“Blocking is when you choose the shape of the hat. There are wooden blocks—I work with a guy who has hundreds and hundreds. You can go and choose your particular style or have one carved, which is pretty expensive. You really don’t know until you get a trained eye exactly what a block might translate into. And you really don’t know what proportions might work or what might not work.”


2) Sewing skins.
“In fur, you can’t have a seam allowance—that extra little edge of fabric around a seam—because it would be so bulky. This machine makes the materials flush. It’s really difficult to use. I’m still learning. It can take people ten years to master something like this.”


3) Navigating the wonderful world of feathers.
“There are lots of different kinds of feathers, and you can manipulate them according to their properties. Ostrich feathers are really delicate—I like to bundle them. This is one of my favorite feathers—it’s called peacock flue. And for the Of a Kind headband, I’m knotting turkey feathers. Each type gives a different feeling.”