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Behind The Scenes

Cary and Jenna Are Big on Japan

Jenna (left) and Cary in Tokyo. After putting in their time ruching and beading while running design for LaROK, Cary Vaughan and Jenna Wilson set out to make their line Ace & Jig all about loose, sophisticatedly free-spirited clothing. “We were new moms. We wanted functional clothing, and we didn’t want to try too hard,” explains Cary. For them, that meant looking to influential Japanese brands that take structure and fabrics seriously but don’t overcomplicate things. That approach has gotten them respect on the flipside. “We are in nine or ten stores in Japan, including Opening Ceremony. It’s a lot for our business, just in its second season,” says Jenna. These four lines get them excited about evolving their aesthetic.45rpmJenna: They do amazing indigo dyeing, and their wovens are amazing as well. Japanese lines are known for having great, artisanal, specialty fabrics, and this one has some of the best.KapitalCary: Kapital is one of those lines that just goes for it. We love the bizarre aspect of it—the prints, the colors. They do a lot of patchwork and a lot of layering, and we love all the models—they use interesting-looking people and older women. They try to portray the brand for all different kinds of people.Fil MelangeJenna: I think what we admire most is their menswear. It’s mostly knits, but it has a vintage-athletic vibe to it. All of these Japanese fabrics are just amazing.Tsumori ChisatoJenna: We love things that are really authentic—but then we love whimsy. That’s sort of what you see in Ace & Jig, that feeling of authenticity in really fun colors.Cary: We specifically like Tsumori Chisato’s prints. Get comfy in the newest Ace & Jig edition now!
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See Ace & Jig’s Awesome Textile-Making Process

When Jenna Wilson and Cary Vaughn think about developing a new collection for their super-buzzy, so-breezy line Ace & Jig, they don’t just dream of new silhouettes—they also concept their fabrics, which are all woven especially for them in India by weavers that they visit all the freaking time. Here’s your chance to see just how their rad linen and cotton fabrics come to be. —alisha prakash “We design and create all of our own textiles. They are all yarn-dyed, woven fabrics of varying weights and constructions, and all are variations on the stripe.” “We work one-on-one with weavers in India to create these textiles. We are actually off to India again now to work on next season! It’s an amazing artisanal and inspiring process. The master weavers work on beautiful old wood looms. We always come up with new textile challenges each season, and working through them is a very technical and creative process.” “We start with hanks of raw fiber. We work with a hand-dyer who is unbelievable. He mixes all of the colors by eye and checks the shade with a tiny dab of color on the stone wall next to him. He always hits the shade the first time!” “The yarns are dried in the sun and hand-spun into skeins using an apparatus recycled out of an old bicycle.” “The pirns are wrapped and inserted into the shuttles ready to start the weft.” “In the meantime, the weaver has been planning the warp, which is extremely complicated. We often create doublecloths, which are two cloths woven at the same time and connected together during the weaving process. There is always a long planning process where we sit with the weaver and the owner of the factory—who is a textile guru—and hash out the plan for how to create the fabrics together. During this process, the original fabric concepts evolve. We love to incorporate intricate textures and patterns and are always breaking the rules!” “Once the plan is definite, the weaver hammers pegs into boards, which wrap around a cylindrical drum on the loom, and begins the meticulous and lengthy process of threading the warp.” “As the weaver works the foot treadles, the drum rotates—effectively raising and lowering the frames through which the warp is strung.” “The shuttles are passed back and forth, and the cloth begins to take shape. And then we make a million changes and start the process over again!” See the adorable robe Cary and Jenna made us on the loom!
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