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Tool Time

5 Jewelry Settings to Know (So You Can Talk Like a Pro)

Tool Time BY katie nave freeman 03/02/2017

ring diagram

 

So you’ve been roped into helping your BFF’s soon-to-be-fiancé pick a ring, but terms like “prong setting” are being flung around...and you have no idea WTF that means. Stay away from the scary Google black hole—we’ve got a pro in the house, Michelle Hisae Meronek of M. Hisae, and she’s here to tell you all about the greatest ways to put a stone on a band.

GYPSY SETTING

 

“Also known as a burnish or flush setting, it’s when the stone is set directly into the body of metal, from which a rim is created to hold the stone in place. This is my favorite style of setting—it has a sense of self-reliance by using the material that's already been given to you.”

 

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BEAD

 

“Small beads of metal are pushed up from the base metal just over the rim of the stone. A grid or repeating pattern of bead settings is referred to as pavé.”

 

CHANNEL

 

“In this setting, gemstones sit between two parallel walls, like a trench. It requires meticulous measuring and fitting. The stones sit side-by-side, with no metal separating them, creating a beautifully fluid look.”

 

PRONG

 

“Prongs, or claws, fold over the stone's girdle or just above the midline of a cabochon. Keep in mind that prongs can sometimes compromise the safety of your stone as they are more prone to snagging or chipping. However, because the stone is more exposed, an excess of light travels through for a stunning brilliance.”

 

BEZEL

 

“This is the most versatile and widely used setting. The stone sits inside a tube or cup of metal with an innate wall, which is then folded over the sides of the stone. The top surface is accentuated, and the underside is hidden.”

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