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See Ace & Jig’s Awesome Textile-Making Process

BY alisha prakash 10/21/2013

When Jenna Wilson and Cary Vaughn think about developing a new collection for their super-buzzy, so-breezy line Ace & Jig, they don’t just dream of new silhouettes—they also concept their fabrics, which are all woven especially for them in India by weavers that they visit all the freaking time. Here’s your chance to see just how their rad linen and cotton fabrics come to be. 

 

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“We design and create all of our own textiles. They are all yarn-dyed, woven fabrics of varying weights and constructions, and all are variations on the stripe.”

 

 

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“We work one-on-one with weavers in India to create these textiles. We are actually off to India again now to work on next season! It’s an amazing artisanal and inspiring process. The master weavers work on beautiful old wood looms. We always come up with new textile challenges each season, and working through them is a very technical and creative process.”

 

 

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“We start with hanks of raw fiber. We work with a hand-dyer who is unbelievable. He mixes all of the colors by eye and checks the shade with a tiny dab of color on the stone wall next to him. He always hits the shade the first time!”

 

 

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“The yarns are dried in the sun and hand-spun into skeins using an apparatus recycled out of an old bicycle.”

 

 

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“The pirns are wrapped and inserted into the shuttles ready to start the weft.”

 

 

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“In the meantime, the weaver has been planning the warp, which is extremely complicated. We often create doublecloths, which are two cloths woven at the same time and connected together during the weaving process. There is always a long planning process where we sit with the weaver and the owner of the factory—who is a textile guru—and hash out the plan for how to create the fabrics together. During this process, the original fabric concepts evolve. We love to incorporate intricate textures and patterns and are always breaking the rules!”

 

 

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“Once the plan is definite, the weaver hammers pegs into boards, which wrap around a cylindrical drum on the loom, and begins the meticulous and lengthy process of threading the warp.”

 

 

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“As the weaver works the foot treadles, the drum rotates—effectively raising and lowering the frames through which the warp is strung.”

 

 

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“The shuttles are passed back and forth, and the cloth begins to take shape. And then we make a million changes and start the process over again!”

 

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