What It Takes to Make a Perfect Tee, According to Amanda Blake
“I’ve worked on a million T-shirts,” says Amanda Blake, who did time at Joie and DKNY before striking out on her own. “The perfect T-shirt has always been brewing in my head.” Here, she shows us exactly how she nailed every last detail for her line Calder.
“My favorite thing about vintage tees is how they used to be a little more substantial. They’re not as sheer as they are now, which makes for a really easy, throw-this-shirt-on-and-out-the-door type experience. Heavier fabrics also tend to be a little more durable and to wash better. I like working with companies that knit their fabrics locally in L.A. and specialize in supima cotton, which is the highest-grade cotton.”
“I told my seamstresses to slow it down, make the seams smaller, and put bindings on the back neck to cover the stitches. For our crew tees, the neckband is a little wider to make it more feminine even though it has a boyish cut. I pay attention to the really, really small details.”
“We use reactive dyes because they’re cleaner and are more European in aesthetic. We choose a timeless palette that can be worn in all seasons.”
“The label is made of 100% cotton. The actual logo is my handwriting. It was a very organic process that is simple without being just a regular piece of type on the label—classic with a personal, authentic twist, which sums up the brand.”
“We press the T-shirts before they go out to make them look more finished—it’s not hoity-toity or overdone, just clean, simple, and put-together.”