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Inside Job

Inside the Greenpoint Studio Turning Out Your New Favorite Statement Jewelry

Inside Job BY claire luchette 08/25/2016

Though their arresting, wrist-and-ear-wrapping jewelry is so intricate it looks like something Cleopatra would have rocked, Lady Grey founders Sabine Le Guyader and Jill Martinelli still make every last painstakingly detailed piece by hand in their NYC studio. The Greenpoint space is equal parts glam and grungy (but in a great way). Here’s a tour of the spot where they turn huge coils of metal into knot pendants and earrings shaped like tiny, delicate faces.

 

“Our studio is definitely a workspace that gets really dirty from all the metal shavings, polishing compounds, and sanding dust, but we try to have some fresh greens and a nice little display area to liven the space up a bit! Ferns make a big impact, and you can do a lot with just black and white paper.”

 

“There’s of course always tons of in-process jewelry in the studio. These are the raw, cast bronze silhouettes for our hoop edition, before the earring back had been soldered on and they'd been polished. These were made by hand-sawing the shape of the silhouette out of wax and then casting it in bronze to make multiples.”

 

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“We love to be surrounded with books in the studio for reference and inspiration. Our favorites are historical jewelry and fashion photo books, old National Geographics, and books about stones and metalsmithing techniques. This spot has a few of our favorites, like Contemporary Jewelry in Perspective edited by Damian Skinner, Mourning Art and Jewelry by Maureen Delorme, Rings for The Finger by George Frederick Kunz, and The Book of Stones by Robert Simmons. The vessel is a perpetual face vase—you can buy similar ones at Jonathan Adler.”

 

“We are total chain hoarders! We keep a big stockpile of different chain options in the studio for when we're designing. The slightest difference in chains can make a huge difference in the look of the piece, so having as many options around to choose from is really important to us. Deciding which style chain to use for a necklace is one of the hardest parts of the design process for us.”

 

“This is where we store some of the raw materials we keep around the studio. Having a large selection of brass stock in different shapes and sizes is really important when designing a new collection. Even though we make small pieces, the materials to create them take up a surprising amount of space!”

 

“We have a special connection to the number nine. There are nines all over our studio and our homes, and we got matching 9 tattoos with our best friend Melissa Carroll. Melissa gave us this particular nine shortly before she passed away two years ago, and it reminds us of her joyful spirit and bravery every time we look at it.”

 

“This is our soldering station. We do all of our own soldering right here in our studio. In this photo, we are joining each earring post onto the castings, before hand-polishing and plating in gold.”

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